Dubrovnik: our last day

Lokrum, off the coast, has peacocks!

Just back from our second round of kayaking -- if you book three tours with Adventure Dubrovnik, the third one is free, and while they offer many different ones, kayaking was calling us: we really enjoyed it, and the sea was much calmer today. Therefore we got to go all the way around Lokrum this time, and get more time in the boat overall.

Luckily, Marko was working again, so we got to chat with him a bit more during our snack break on the beach. We exchanged e-mail addresses at the end of the excursion. I really hope we can meet up with him again when we're in the region (or he's in the UK or Canada).

The view from Lokrum

I'm now sipping the orahovac we bought yesterday -- so much currant, it's like fruit cake in a glass; delish! -- while Tea grabs a shower. The plan for the afternoon is to picnic on Lokrum, away from the crowds; lots of cruise ships in today, it seems.

Oh, I almost forgot: oddly, we've been passing our next-door neighbour, Buffet Škola, by each day, despite its many awards. Running low on breakfast food, we'd made the plan to grab a sandwich there before our 10 a.m. tour. So glad we did. They make their own bread, and my smoked ham sandwich was amazing. Great coffee too. The perfect start to the day.

Well, looks like I'm up next for the shower.

Amazing scenery on the island -- firefighters are the only residents, to preserve this.

Lokrum monastery

Update 7:40 p.m.: We missed the ferry to Lokrum by five minutes, and so, with an hour to wait, decided against the picnic in favour of a quick treat of fried smelts and calamari; amazing! And then we still had almost two hours on the island. Finally, get this: we stop at the most remote bar of the trip, a few minutes before the last ferry back, and get two bottles of Tomislav! I wouldn't've dreamed of it, but Tea asked. It reminded me of a nice ruby mild (even though it's a lager); the beer of the trip, as I predicted, and an awesome way to finish it.

Check out our album for more pictures from the island.

Dubrovnik: up amongst the swifts

We woke to rain in the wee hours this morning. It had cleared by the time we'd stirred, and there was barely a cloud in the sky until mid afternoon. We're about to head to supper now, and it's still lovely, if a little cool.

We booked a tour to Montenegro tomorrow; we'll be up early for that two-hour bus ride. Hopefully the good weather will continue. The other significant event of the day was walking the walls of Old Town. Unsurprisingly, it's a popular attraction, but they've done a great job, keeping the foot traffic one-way. I'd also recommend going later in the afternoon; they're closed at 6 p.m., but they don't chase you off once you're up and, today at least, the lighting was superb as it got on for 7 p.m.

Cafe Buza: just outside the walls

As the title suggests, the highlight for me was the swifts: for sheer numbers, as well as their proximity. They're such agile creatures, dipping and diving in and out of the narrowest of alleys, and then coming mere feet from you. When we were staying in Varenna, I had trouble distinguishing them from bats once dusk came on; here, the shape of their beaks, colouration, etc. were all immediately obvious. What I wasn't able to determine is where they were nesting; I kept trying to follow their 'flicking', wondering whether they'd ever get tired. (Having very short legs, swifts won't voluntary land on the ground or perch.)

I'll included a few shots below, but don't forget to check out our album as well.

Update 10:50 p.m.: We'd spied and smelled the smoke from Lady Pi Pi's grill earlier, settling on that for supper. It did not disappoint. I'm stuffed to the gills still. I started with anchovies, and then went for grilled squid; such good choices -- the best squid of my life, hands down -- but I didn't stop there: when I saw Lady Pi Pi goulash, I had to try it. The waiter raised an eyebrow, but dutifully brought it. They'd listed it as a side dish, but it was a meal in itself. And, oh, so good. I put a good dent in the lot, anyway. Tea's steak, with sardines to start, was also excellent. I can see us back there for at least one more meal.

Dubrovnik, at last

Ah, Dubrovnik at last! Ever since I fell for the New Dubrovnik in Ottawa, I've dreamed of seeing (and tasting) it. Granted that cuisine is more prominent in the north of Croatia, but, after some outstanding sea bass this afternoon at Bistro Teatar, I'm not complaining! (The Greek and Italian influences are stronger in the south.) The waiter brought it out beforehand -- we even saw a guy delivering fresh catches during the meal! -- and it was prepared so beautifully with garlic and herbs; I'm salivating at the memory. A gentleman beside me was having oysters the likes of which I've only seen in Vigo, and these were even fleshier; apparently they're in season now. With only a dash of lemon, what a starter!

Getting off the bus outside the main gate of Dubrovnik's Old Town was a bit overwhelming -- according to a local paper, they're expecting 206 cruise ships this year, and it seemed really busy with the half dozen or so that were in today -- but, post-kip, with them set sail and the setting sun reflecting off the worn cobblestones, swifts crying and circling above... Well, it just brings you up, marvelling.

I know the reality of the Old Town isn't as romantic: while it's been recognized as a World Heritage Site since '79, I remember reading that the property market has recently rocketed (or maybe has again): as such, fewer folks actually live there, selling or renting their places -- just like the apartment we're in -- and moving outside the walls. [I just remembered that one of my sources was Boj's blog. She references incentives to keep locals living in the Old Town; I'll have to see whether there's data on how that's working, two years on from their visit.]

Check out our Picasa album for more pictures from the trip; I'll be updating it throughout the week here.

The Magical Forest (of Dean)

We decided to make the most of a day off, and headed for Puzzlewood before noon. The rain held off, and there was barely another soul in the wood, making for a magical afternoon. It's easy to see how Tolkien was inspired; the range of vegetation and colour is truly surreal.

Having worked up an appetite, it was time for the second half of our plan: high tea at Aunt Martha's Victorian Tea Rooms in Drybrook. Tea had it on good authority that they offered an authentic Victorian experience -- and were a hoot to boot. Well, they're that and more. Nadine and "Old Ned" were so hospitable and entertaining: four hours simply flew by; we didn't even realise (and they certainly never hinted at) how long passed closing we'd kept them, chatting and touring their gardens.

But, for me, it was the sentiments echoed by a previous celiac customer -- relayed by Nadine, as we sampled tasty scones and "just tea" -- that stick with me now: I felt normal, eating there. Nadine herself has suffered from gluten and lactose intolerance in the past, and decided early on that she wanted to be able to enjoy all the treats on offer in her tea room. Both Mom and Tea raved about these savoury and sweet treats, and eventually I shed my trepidation, then diving in with gusto. It was a bit like a dream, to be honest, such was this sense of coming home, eating food I hadn't had much of, or enjoyed with such carefree abandon, since childhood.

We got chatting to some caravanners there who recommended Symonds Yat Rock and its impressive vistas, and so decided to push our luck with the grey clouds and waning daylight. That view of the River Wye really is amazing, and we spent a good hour gazing about, hoping to catch a glimpse of the peregrines that nest nearby. We did hear a number of birds of prey, and saw what I believe was a buzzard fly very close by; pretty good, considering the peregrine hunting season is finished now.

As the wind picked up, we decided a pub was in order. Tea's CAMRA Good Beer Guide application had a number of suggestions off the drive home. At random, we picked the Red Hart Inn in Blaisdon, and, oh my goodness, what a find! They do have a nice selection on the handpumps, but it's the atmosphere and the food that really set this place apart: the staff are uncommonly friendly, from the owner right down to the folks bussing the tables. Mom has to stick to a fairly strict diet, which they accommodated with ease. Tea and I had the pork belly, which had been slow roasting all afternoon; simply amazing. And they served it with blood pudding -- the first time I'd had it outside breakfast -- which was some of the best I've had, truth be told.

If you're getting the impression that it was a stellar day, my job is done. It really did exceed all expectations, and now sets the bar very high for days out in Gloucestershire.